Within sight of the bustling caterpillar assault of the masses on Pen-y-Fan, the serenity of Craig Cerrig Gleisiad is emphatic. Aptly described as an ‘atmospheric amphitheatre’, this National Nature Reserve is a delectable discovery in the heart of the Brecon Beacons National Park. Here, trees, shrubs, rare arctic-alpine plants, wildflowers and peregrine falcons have colonised the vertiginous slopes creating an extraordinary environment. It’s a fine little hill to climb too.

The full title is Craig Cerrig Gleisiad a Fan Frynych, which comprises twin tops with rare shapely distinction in the open moorland country of the Forest Fawr. Having said that, the actual summits are characteristic of the rest of this bleak expanse whose highest point, Fan Fawr, is a hundred metres more lofty and lies a couple of kilometres south. The latter also provides perhaps the finest views in the district so could be tagged on to your walk if a longer outing was desired.

The map can be zoomed in or out to change the scale

The Forest Fawr was established as a hunting ground in Norman times and originally included parts of Black Mountain, however, in modern days it is generally accepted to comprise the sweeping, open land between the A470 in the east to the A4067 to the west. Nevertheless, the name was adopted by the first designated geopark in Wales, which itself also covers both Black Mountain and the Brecon Beacons. Geoparks are geological playgrounds, uncovering significant events in the story of the earth and how its landscape was shaped. Within this specific geopark are diversities above and below ground, from the largest limestone cave systems in Wales to the glacial sculpting and landslips that define Craig Cerrig Gleisiad, the subject of this study.

There is a reasonably large, dedicated layby on the A470 for the nature reserve, a couple of miles distant from Storey Arms and thus safe from the overspill of those intent on climbing Pen-y-Fan. Some visitors will merely be taking the lower-level walking trails that provide an overview to the verdant cwm; however, we have also come to ascend the hills and this can be achieved in a comfortable half day circuit. It is worth bearing in mind that the bowl faces mostly northeast and is therefore in shadow for much of the day. The ideal time for best appreciation would undoubtedly be a tranquil summer’s evening. As for the ideal season, spring into early summer displays the wildflowers at their best and late summer brings bloom to the heather. Nonetheless, the photographs in this feature were taken in mid February!

If taking a clockwise round, the ascent is surprisingly steep and sustained, although not prolonged as these hills only attain an altitude of 629m (2064ft), commencing from a car park suspended at over half that height. During the climb there are tantalising views from the rim of the glacial corrie across the dramatic slopes, serving to distract the breathless hillwalker. Once the hard work is done it is an easy stroll to the summit, with frequent pauses required to turn around and absorb the scene to the high Beacons. Some people prefer, therefore, to make the circuit anticlockwise, although this does involve a steep and occasionally slippery descent.

The next top, Fan Frynych is clearly seen, merely a kilometre distant and of equal altitude, there being little descent and reascent to attain the trig point, which is set back on a featureless plateau. Nonetheless, this has its charms by enveloping the observer in the vast surrounding scale of the wilderness, in complete contrast to the sheltered cwm nearby.

Dropping down into the cossetting corrie is akin to entering an uncharted, fantasy mountain garden, the dizzying slopes looming above the undercliff, a heady haze of shrubs and spindly trees. How nature took a grip in such unique fashion is remarkable, though the conditions are undoubtedly favourable to the vegetation and steep enough to have kept the grazing sheep at bay. Hollowed by glacial erosion and roughened by a colossal landslip, this is a place of awe.

The whole walk is only around three miles, yet feels complete, satisfying in its variety from a high mountain environment to the secluded comfort of the lower slopes. The hill is indeed favoured for not being the highest in South Wales, a dubious honour bestowed upon the adjacent Pen-y-Fan, which will have endured the relentless onslaught of a thousand boots during your peaceful stroll through geological history.

For a more detailed description of the route and a little extra wildlife content visit:

https://www.countryfile.com/go-outdoors/walks/walk-craig-cerrig-gleisiad-powys

Status: An Honourable Mention

Worthiness Rating: 68

Aesthetic – 21

Complexity – 11

Views – 14

Route satisfaction – 14

Special Qualities – 8