Ben Mor Coigach forms the entrée to Coigach and Assynt, a land of mystical pointy mountains. Driving north from Ullapool to Ardmair Bay the imposing wall of Garbh Coireachan thrusts into view, an awe-inspiring sight, with the dynamic interplay of light and sea constantly reflecting the capricious atmospheric conditions.

What most observers will not comprehend is the crest of the vertiginous precipice actually forms a sharp arete that is merely the front man to a complex of tops beyond, crowned by Ben Mor Coigach, which lends its name to a convoluted massif. The summit may amount to a relatively lowly 2,438ft (743m), although when it stands proudly aloof amongst a field of distinctly independent landforms, altitude is of little consequence.

Before the roads were constructed, the mountain created a massive physical barrier to the crofting communities further west, access to them best achieved across the waters of Loch Broom, the alternative being a formidable path above the shore. Long known as the Postie’s Path it was trod twice a week by the postman delivering letters to Achiltibuie, a distance of over fourteen miles by foot from Ullapool. Subsequently falling into disuse, the path had become rather sketchy; and an intimidating undertaking traversing steep, unprotected slopes. Due to its significant cultural and historical legacy, the Postman’s Path has now been upgraded with better signage added, although it is still to be regarded as a mountain walk, not a seaside stroll.

The work was completed in 2021 and carried out under the Coigach and Assynt Living Landscape Partnership Scheme, led by the Scottish Wildlife Trust, of which Ben Mor Coigach comprises the charity’s largest nature reserve. Paths on Suilven and Quinag have also been improved through this grant aided scheme.

The map can be zoomed in or out to change the scale

Ben Mor Coigach displays many facets and it is tricky to recommend the premier route of ascent, as all inevitably compromise on at least one aspect of the mountain. The most frequented starting point is Culnacraig, attained by a long drive around the entire circumference of the nature reserve, which certainly affords an appreciation of the vast footprint of the hill and provides stunning views throughout.

The opportunity to visit Achilitibuie and take a diversion along the Rubha Mor peninsula to Reiff is also worth grasping while there.

From Culnacraig there is the option to climb as many of the tops as you wish, although the standard circuit includes the four highest summits of Speicein nan Garbh-Coireachan, Ben Mor Coigach, Speicein Coinnich and Sgurrr an Fhidhleir.

For a longer walk with a shorter drive, the ascent can be made from Blughassary, just off the main Ullapool road and can incorporate the postman’s Path. This circuit requires a detour to attain Sgurr an Fhidhleir.

Finally, access is possible from the east end of Loch Lurgainn, though is mostly trackless. However, it opens up the possibility of throwing the rarely climbed outliers of Beinn an Eoin and Sgorr Tuath into the mix.

Route details can be found on the Walk Highlands Website with many additional reports on the forum pages: https://www.walkhighlands.co.uk/

An ascent including the Postman’s Path: https://www.ukhillwalking.com/logbook/r/?i=466

As viewpoints, all tops on the mountain have individual advantages. Let’s examine them as we make an ascent from Culnacraig from the western side. The steep climb to Garbh Coireachan is relieved by the sublime prospect of Loch Broom and the Summer Isles, with An Teallach rearing above the shoulder of Ben Ghobhlach. From on high, the Summer Isles are magical gemstones amidst the glittering waters of the loch. Your ascent may coincide with the mid-morning passage of the Ullapool to Stornoway ferry, which remarkably manages to steer a straight course between the archipelago of around twenty islands. Many were formerly occupied, the largest being Tanera Mor, which supported a population of one hundred and eighteen in the early 1880s when up to two hundred herring drifters anchored in the bay. Tanera Mor was also the last to be abandoned in 1931. Currently, the most recent owner is developing facilities on the island as a ‘global leisure retreat’. One hopes he has also found a way to bribe the midges to also make a retreat!

The initial summit is named Speicein nan Garbh Coireachan, the first of two Speiceins to be encountered. As far as I can ascertain the Gaelic translation is ‘speck’, which I am guessing is taking the form of a minor bump on the ridge. If you know better, please let me know in the comments!

I am also not aware of any other Speiceins among the Scottish mountains, so the name is certainly a curiosity. Whilst there, your attention may be more engaged with the arete stretching ahead, which is exposed and pleasingly airy, although without substantial difficulties. It leads all too briefly to the main peak of Ben Mor Coigach (frequently and interchangeably spelt ‘More’). From here the eye begins to be drawn away from the coast to the surrounding complex of the home turf tops and then on to the Assynt mountains beyond. The ridge has broadened here and a short detour to the right brings you to the secondary speck of Speicein Coinnich.

For some time, the jutting prow of Sgurr an Fhidhleir has made its presence known and now is the occasion to make its acquaintance. There is a just sufficient relative prominence involved to justify why it warrants ‘Graham’ status, in addition to Ben Mor Coigach. What awaits at the top is a magnificent spectacle, the ground plummeting from the edge, enhancing the lofty vantage point. Gazing across to the inselbergs of Assynt is simply astounding.

A straight descent can be made back to Culnacraig with the Summer Isles ahead for company, or you may add the extra top of Beinn nan Caorach before commencing dropping down in similar fashion to conclude an excellent walk.

Status: Worthy

Worthy Rating: 84.5

Aesthetic – 28.5

Complexity – 16

Views – 18

Route Satisfaction – 15

Special Qualities – 7

STAC POLLAIDH – An Honourable Mention

The Ben Mor Coigach Nature Reserve adjoins the Inverpolly Nature Reserve, itself dominated by one of Scotland’s most visually appealing mountains. Stac Pollaidh has been described as a petrified hedgehog, and whilst some walkers may be petrified by its spiky ridge, the reference is to the hedgehog’s spikes being as though preserved in stone. Perhaps there is a wizard of Assynt.

I have agonised over the undoubtedly deserved inclusion of Stac Pollaidh in the Worthies, because it possesses every desirable attribute, and if the hill was geographically anywhere else it would be a certain addition. However, it would skew the list of Worthies to include everything in the north west and so I have created ‘An Honourable Mention’ status, as a face saver, to allow me to write a few lines in its honour.

Stac Pollaidh is a unique mountain with nothing really comparable, even within the diversity of Assynt. Perhaps the most remarkable aspect to consider is that this whole area was once a high plateau of Torridonian Sandstone, sculpted into its present form by glacial action. One can only praise the choreographer.

Some call Stac Pollaidh a mountain in miniature, although the summit just surpasses 2,000ft, the generally accepted threshold and thus the title of mountain, without the prefix, is fully warranted. Having said that, few of those who make the ascent on the well-constructed path from Loch Lurgainn actually reach the true summit, because this does involve some scrambling. Most will settle for the saddle on the ridge and, maybe, the lower eastern top. However, none of this matters with Stac ‘Polly’, as the excitement of attaining the fractured crest is satisfaction enough. It feels sufficiently exposed yet intimate and is furnished with magnificent views.

From the ridge, a circuit of the mountain can be completed and is recommended, although this path does cross some boggy ground. Most tourists drawn by the power of social media will return by the outward route. And there is nothing wrong with that either, as all who visit will leave richer for the experience.

Status: An Honourable Mention

Worthy Rating: 81.5

Aesthetic – 28.5

Complexity – 14

Views – 18

Route Satisfaction – 14

Special Qualities – 7