The Ochil Hills thrust a forbiddingly steep escarpment above the flat carselands of Clackmannanshire, abruptly liberating the hills from a Lowland landscape; their southern flanks incised by a succession of deep folds shutting out the world. Beyond this, as the gradient eases, the terrain softens into grassy, rolling hills that gradually decrease in elevation to the north and east, where they extend for a considerable distance to the North Sea coast.

The summit of the range is Ben Cleuch at 2363ft (721m), its minor height advantage over neighbouring hills considerably improving the viewing panorama. The top itself may be relatively nondescript but it offers a unique perspective of Scotland’s mountains. In essence, it is this extraordinarily extensive view, allied to the dramatic aspect of scarp and glens that lift what is merely pleasant walking country into Worthy status.

The Ochil Hills are seen by many; it is difficult not to notice their looming bulk to the right when travelling north from Stirling to Perth, although relatively few choose to take the short diversion to explore. Half a day is all you need to gain a flavour of the hills and add a unique, standalone walking area to your outdoor experience.

The Ochil Fault is responsible for the barrier of steep slopes that dominate the Hillfoots, a series of historic villages dotted along the southern base of the hills, each owing its existence to the rampant burns disgorging from the short, gorge-like glens, which provided power for textile mills. The mills have long closed but these hills remain part of life for the residents, creating a sense of belonging. Our visit here is an opportunity to gain a fleeting insight into this beloved bond.

The map can be moved and zoomed in or out to change the scale

It is from two of these villages, Alva and Tillicoultry, that most ascents are made, although a climb can be undertaken from Dollar Glen to the east, worth visiting alone for the imposing ruins of Castle Campbell. Also, to the west, the perky hill of Dumyat (Pron. Dum-eye-at) is a popular walk, again noted for splendid views (although less extensive than from Ben Cleuch). Ascents are made less often from the north, usually from Glen Devon, although these routes are generally less engrossing.

For those with an architectural affinity the Hillfoot villages offer significant allure, but when you are ready to explore the heights, make your way to the glens and take your pick, as Ben Cleuch is accessible from them all. Parking is available in the villages or centrally at the Ochil Hills Woodland Park, formerly the gardens of a local ‘big house’. Extensive plantings gave the name to the slopes above, known as Wood Hill. Leading up from the woodland park is Silver Glen, so-named for the silver that was mined here by the Erskine Estate (the owners of the ‘big house’). At first this enterprise remained secretive as John Erskine was directing the proceeds into procuring arms for the Jacobite rising of 1715! The walk up the glen towards Ben Cleuch is direct, although follows a vehicular track so it is preferable to divert onto the hills on either side. Wood Hill is one side and the shapely Nebit to the other.

Alva Glen is the deepest and steepest and has long been an attraction in itself with walkways and viewpoints for several waterfalls. The glen is managed by a volunteer heritage trust who festoon the woodlands with illuminations once a year to help attract donations.  Tillicoultry Glen (usually known as Mill Glen) is also a rocky ravine that provides exciting exploration. Unfortunately, the nature of the landscape in the steep sided glens involves the paths crossing unstable ground and sections are frequently closed due to collapse or fears of collapse.

Above left: Walkways in Mill Glen

The happy combination of glens and open hillside is a pleasing aspect of climbing Ben Cleuch, albeit a steep one, as the angle of the escarpment remains relentless until around the 500m contour. The direct ascent from Tillicoultry via the ridge over The Law does not ease off until its summit at 638m. In old money that is almost 2,000 feet of climbing in a little over a mile!

Note: the last time time I walked here I descended Mill Glen, only to find this footpath closed sign when I reached the bottom advising walkers not to make the ascent!

Once at higher altitudes the character of the Ochils changes completely, becoming a spacious, rolling, grassy plateau. There are a number of individual summits, their heights immaterial, which collectively offer gentle walking. The actual summit of Ben Cleuch does, however, provide an uncharacteristic scattering of rocks, hence one derivation of its name as stony mountain. It is probably more likely that Cleuch (also spelt Cleugh) refers to the rocky glens that split its flanks (the English version being clough).

Ben Cleuch has a prominence of 595m and with no higher tops for many miles, grants an extensive panorama. It is for this reason that the mountain was chosen as one the original Ordnance Survey Triangulation Stations, the Primaries, which demanded unobstructed, long-distance vision. From the summit the Highland sweep covers from Goat Fell, Ben Lomond, the Perthshire mountains to Ben Nevis and Ben Alder, then round to the Cairngorms and Lochnagar. Perhaps more striking are the closer inspections of the Tay and Forth estuaries, Arthur’s Seat, St Abb’s Head and the Pentland Hills, then through the Southern Uplands as far as the Merrick in Galloway. It is an extraordinary array and to celebrate this variety a toposcope was erected close to the trig pillar, although these days it has faded and is difficult to read.

As you stand in this wild and lofty spot, close to civilisation yet with a sense of quarantine, imagine the sight of a railway station close by, a real possibility at one point. Astonishingly, a line to the summit was reputedly surveyed in 1863 to serve as a tourist attraction (to me the date is suspect as this was before the world had any proper mountain railways), although the supporters were perhaps a little over-enthusiastic regarding the potential appeal and it was never built. Wouldn’t it have been amazing to have the world’s first mountain railway on Ben Cleuch!

Another curious fact about the hill is a late patch of high snow that frequently survives as a long, slender, horizontal ribbon known as Lady Alva’s Wreath. It is apparently one of only seven snow patches in Scotland that have been named due to consistency of shape and longevity.

The prospect to the north is disturbed by Burnfoot Windfarm, operated by EDF. It is perhaps natural that a relatively obscure region such as the Ochils should become a focus for the burgeoning windfarm industry, although many planning applications have been refused. Nevertheless, many more applications are currently in the pipeline. One positive is that the industry does donate funds to the Ochils Mountain Rescue team, which was founded in 1971 and has thirty-five active volunteers. The Ochil Hills may not be the busiest hills in Scotland, nonetheless, the team receive around twenty-five callouts a year.

Ochil water is also a renowned resource. There are a number reservoirs and a couple of flourishing industries that source the pure water hereabouts, particularly from the northern region of the range. This is where ‘Highland Spring’ water comes from, although this is not the Highlands. The company bottle half a million litres a year, apparently equating to around two percent of the average annual rainfall, although that water spends at least fifteen years trickling underground, whilst purifying, before ending up in a bottle. The water is put to an alternative use at the nearby Tullibardine Distillery which, for its marketing, plays instead on the mineral rich qualities (gold was once mined in these hills) to provide character to their single malt whisky.

All in all, there is much to enjoy in the Ochils; it’s a destination with a difference and choosing Ben Cleuch as our representative not only brings a tick as a Marilyn, Hump, Simm, Graham, Donald, Historic County Top, Administrative County Top, Current County/UA Top, Yeaman and P500m Peak – but it’s a fine walk too!

For more details on route directions please refer to the excellent Fife Walking website:

Routes from Alva: https://fifewalking.com/find-a-walk/ochils/ben-cleuch-from-alva/

From Tillycoultry: https://fifewalking.com/find-a-walk/ochils/ben-cleuch-from-tillicoultry/

From Glendevon: https://fifewalking.com/find-a-walk/ochils/ben-cleuch-from-glendevon/

My thanks to Margaret (cocopie on Flickr) for the feature image at the top of the page of the Ochil Hills in the snow.

Worthy Rating: 68.5

Aesthetic – 19.5

Complexity – 13

Views – 15

Route Satisfaction – 14

Special Qualities – 7